At the Milliners by Degas

From Dover Publications

Degas Paintings and Drawings Platinum DVD and Book

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

How to Make a Smart Hat

Yesterday I went shopping at the Antique Market in Toronto. I am always looking for interesting material related to hats, albeit even remotely related. I found the September 1923 edition of Good Housekeeping on sale. What a joy for $5 Canadian!

There are great articles and advertisements in the Magazine. It takes one back to the Flapper Age and Prohibition Time in the USA. It is a great time capsule. One of the gems in this particular issue is an article on how to make your own hat:

Millinery Lesson: Making a Smart Hat of Velvet or Duvetyn
By Gaynell Ardell

I looked up the author on the Internet. It looks like this was a one time Millinery Lesson from this person – although there may be articles under another nom de plume. The good news is that the article is easily obtainable by you. Cornell University has scanned this Magazine and you can see it on line at this link. The article is on page 62 and continues on page 154. You can enlarge the size of print using the + sign. You can also print the article for your personal use using the “Print” button top left – you will have to print the two pages separately.

It is an interesting article and very reflective of its time.

Reuse and recycle were very in in those days. Despite our talk we are a wasteful disposable society. Instructions are even included on how to use the velvet from last year’s hat. It all starts from sprinkling magnesia on the velvet material!

The design is built around a buckram frame. If you cannot source one in your local Yellow Pages you can do an internet search for a mail order supplier. It looks like these frames are not expensive and are under $10.

Enjoy the article you will also find some other great Flapper Fashion in its pages – great stuff to browse.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

A follow up to Hat Etiquette for Men

I received a comment on my post about the etiquette of hat wearing by men. This man has been in the habit of wearing a hat in a Christian Church and a “friend” had sent him a link to my blog post.

First of all, I did not make up these rules and they have developed over time. Yes I know it was different way back when, when everyone wore hats. Please do not shoot the messenger. The contents of the post were drawn from a variety of sources and best efforts were used to represent the etiquette faithfully. Some customs do not really have a logical explanation especially in the context of our current environment.

It is really difficult when some religions call for men’s heads to be covered as a sign of respect (but the type of head covering may be prescribed). Other religious sects require removal of hats as a sign of respect.

In the case of the Christian religion it is my understanding that men are expected to remove their hats (except for the clergy who wear special head gear and the military on duty perhaps and perhaps police at a funeral for a slain officer). This removal of hats is considered to be a sign of respect. Please check out the discussion thread on this Christian site.

http://christianblogs.christianet.com/1192726704.htm

There is apparently some scripture based logic for this position. It is difficult to translate the customs and practices of 2,000 + years ago into today but this does not seem to stop the fundamentalists of many religious faiths who often take a literal position. I am not going to debate the merits of this but merely point out these views.

Yes practices can and do develop. I have noticed that young men are wearing hats indoors – especially entertainers – it seems to be the new cool. I actually like this as long as it is not a baseball cap. Better that than no hat at all I say!! Please Michael Moore take note and also please no wearing a baseball hat backwards.

When someone joins a church they give up some of their freedoms. If the congregation interprets custom and scripture to require removal of hats in church this is the rule. An exception might be made for medical purposes. In the final analysis one needs to observe the practices of others in the congregation. Check with your Priest or Minister to see if they are offended by men wearing hats in church.

Women are allowed generally to wear hats in Church. African American women in the USA have developed this practice into an art form – you got to love it! The Catholic Church had required head gear from the Middle Ages but no longer require women to wear hats in Church. Is a baseball cap a Church Hat? I would like to say not! I am no theologian perhaps though the religious sects may want it to be easier to join the congregation rather than be custom bound.

Please weigh in everybody and let me have your views.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Suffragettes in 1913 London

This is a great clip I came across recently. It is a demonstration for votes for women in Pre- War 1913 London England. Everybody was so well dressed and especially the big hats on women. What a contrast with today’s demonstrators! Straw boaters were very much in evidence on the men, including a very upset young boy who got caught up in the demonstration. You will notice that the women demonstrators got arrested. The women would go on hunger strike in jail and were force fed. A favorite technique would be to release the women who got ill and then when they recovered they would be re-imprisoned -- the so called Cat and Mouse Act. Women in Britain gained the vote after demonstrating their usefulness in the 1914-1918 War but only for women 30 years and older. Those 21 or older were given the vote later in the 1920s.

What a different world -- some good things and some bad things. The people in the clip have all passed away but they do not seem too different from us today going about their business. My favorite is the ladies on the Omnibuses wearing their over sized hats -- what strong hat pins they must have had! Thanks to the British Film Institute (BFI) for preserving this and other vintage film clips -- what a joy!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgfhm1XOdYk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgfhm1XOdYk

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

I am still searching the Toronto Antique Market for hatty finds, especially vintage pictures. I thought that you would be interested in these I found a couple of weeks back. Enjoy!!

Pretty Girls

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

You Bet Your Life 1954

You Bet Your Life was a quiz show hosted by comedian Groucho Marx. It was on the radio in the 1940s and graduated to the television later on. The Grand Prize at that time was $3,000 (quite a sum of money). I was searching for some hatty material and I came across one of the shows with a very interesting contestant. The elderly contestant, Mary Saget, was 78 years old (born circa 1876) she was a very sparky spinster. A spinster by choice she told Groucho. She made Groucho extinguish his trademark cigar. When Groucho reached for another as a prop Mary objected to even that since she could not stand the sight of them.

So how do you keep so young asked Groucho? Well it was healthy food and exercise. Groucho asked Mary to demonstrate her breathing exercises. In the tradition of the day Mary kept her hat securely fastened to her head. The hat seemed quite old fashioned for the early 50s but hey you wear what you like. Clearly she was wearing industrial strength hat pins keeping the hat on. No doubt a habit learned when she was a young woman at the turn of the 20th century.

Here is the segment demonstrating her exercises. It was a hoot! How many 78 year olds can touch their toes (let alone in a short time).

www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FMIzUl-UGQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FMIzUl-UGQ

Mary reminded me so much of my Aunt Lil who was of a similar generation and passed away sadly when she was 72. She even looks like my aunt (great aunt). It goes without saying that she too loved her hats.

You can download this episode and other You Bet Your Life episodes on the Internet Archive website.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Parlor Music

In the days before radio it was common to have a piano in the Drawing Room. In  Victorian, Edwardian times and beyond into the 1920s entertainment in the Parlor was very popular. This can be seen in the photograph probably taken around the time of World War 1 or just before. It is interesting that one of the ladies is wearing a hat she is probably a visitor and it likely is not her home. The whole family would stand around the piano and sing. Parlor music sheets were as popular as CDs today. The art work on the covers was wonderful and there are many collectors today -- many are classic and suitable for framing.

This is a short video I put together with a selection of song sheet covers featuring hat wearing. The pictures are in the public domain and came from a variety of public domain sources.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcGd7Y-Ei08

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcGd7Y-Ei08

If you want to see some sing of the old songs check out Arthur Askey on the UK program The Good Old Days. Check out the hats in the audience.

More information on Parlor Music

If you want to get more information on Parlor Music you should visit the Parlor Music Website.

This is a not for profit organization dedicated to the following objectives:

1. Preservation
Parlor Songs is dedicated to the acquisition and rescue of the historic musical manuscripts that are a part of the popular music scene in America. We believe that our collection of 19th and 20th century music represents a unique grouping of manuscripts that will be lost to our culture and future if not saved through physical and digital preservation.

2. Education and sharing.
Beyond the preservation of the documents, we feel it is vital to share these works of art through education and exposition. This is accomplished through articles about the music, composers, lyricists, cover artists and others who contributed to the early development of American popular music. These articles and essays also address issues of historical perspective and include publication on the World Wide Web, CD-ROM, lectures, books and other forms of information distribution.

3. Providing a forum for study and discussion.
We want to provide a forum for individuals and organizations with similar interests and purposes where they may share information, tips for aquisition, valuation, preservation techniques as well as helping to guide the standards for digital preservation.

(quote from website)

This is a fun website to visit just to look up old songs and find out more about who wrote and produced it. You will also be able to play back the songs. You can even order a reproduction copy of the music, including the cover, for a very modest charge. There is a page on the website featuring hats on song sheet covers and some interesting background on the music sheets featured in their article.

Find Ladies Hats on Song Sheet Covers on their website.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Hat wearing etiquette for women

There are a lot fewer rules for hat wearing by women than for men. See my previous post on hat wearing by men.  One thing is for sure a woman never doffs (tips) her hat to anyone. If she did this it would certainly be considered strange. Even stranger if any woman were to take off her hat like a man. Perhaps such thing can be seen in stage performances? Of course women in the military would follow the same rules regarding their “cover” as for men (or so I would imagine – can anyone be more specific here?).

The different rules for women developed in the heady days when everyone wore hats. The hats worn by women were an integral part of their outfits and were never removed. Would you ever take off your dress in public? Women would be naked without their hats. In any case removal of one’s best hat would be impracticable in most circumstances as the hat may have been fastened to the hair severely by a series of hat pins. This was certainly the case in Victorian and Edwardian times.

As women dress more in the style of men some might say they should observe rules for men, or at least some of them when wearing such hats. Such occasions would include funeral processions, the display of the Flag, Prayer (depending on the faith), and the playing of the National Anthem.

In the Middle Ages the Catholic Church ordained the wearing of headgear in Church. In those early days these hats were large and elaborate for the upper classes with large cones. It must have been difficult to see over them in Church but still no matter. From the 1960s on the practice of hat wearing in Church has waned somewhat. In Christian Churches the wearing of a proper hat is acceptable and even de rigueur for some. In the USA many African American ladies proudly wear their Church Hats.

The Village Hat Shop refers to the 1963 book by Amy Vanderbilt New Complete Book of Etiquette. Women now have the choice about whether to wear hats for outdoor parties and weddings. In houses where weddings and funerals are conducted indoors the rules are the same as for churches. (There are special rules for different religions)

Women are typically permitted to wear hats that are part of the outfit indoors. But Emily Post advised that a hat should NOT be worn with an evening dress (to me this seems more of a style point than an etiquette point – why not experiment I say). The style mavens of the 1950s and 1960s advise that daytime hats with large brims not be worn inside in the evening. Smaller brim hats should be worn if any hat is worn. Some would say that any dress hat can be worn indoors without exception. (Personally I do not look as good with a small brimmed hat). After dinner is the appropriate time to remove your hat if so inclined. A woman would not normally wear her hat in her own home even in the old days.

Wearing hats at an upscale restaurant is acceptable especially for fancy luncheons and High Teas. Indeed many ladies get together for High Teas where hat wearing is mandatory and is a fun event. Some advise that the hat should be part of your street clothes – a nice dress for example. Perhaps it is not appropriate when wearing a jogging suit or your gardening clothes – but hey some people are eccentric!

In theaters and concerts women are permitted to wear hats. Hats should be removed if they obstruct the view of another patron.

Women should remove their personal hats at work. Of course special headgear for uniforms and protection or for some theatrical performance perhaps might be worn.

There is some debate relating to the wearing of dress hats at Wedding Receptions. Here it seems that one takes the cues from the mothers of the Bride and Groom. When they remove theirs then it is OK to remove yours. If your hat encumbers the service of food take it off.

Another word about baseball caps

If a woman wears a baseball cap can it properly be considered to be a woman’s hat? It is a unisex item I think. It is believed by many that these hats should be removed on solemn occasions and always removed indoors. Some say that for women anything goes and one can wear such hats or any hats indoors. But this is a losing battle I believe the practice of baseball hat wearing has become widespread and the hats are worn every place.

Oh I forgot to mention. Whether you are a man or a woman and you hold your hat in you hand or under your arm never expose the inside lining of the hat.

My final advice use good commonsense and observe the behavior of others unless you like to be a maverick hat wearer like me.

This article has been compiled from various sources and is accurate to the best of my knowledge and belief. Please let me have your clarifying comments. Or perhaps you have something to add?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Hatequette for Men

The days when every man and every woman wore a hat to go out are behind us at last for the time being. Perhaps universal hat wearing will return who knows? With universal hat wearing came a whole host of social conventions that developed over the years. These conventions developed out of politeness and respect. If you watch the old classic black and white movies as I do you can see many of the customs in action.

The first thing to note is that there are completely different rules for men and women. This post covers the rules relating to men and hat wearing.

In short the rules cover:

• When to remove your hat: and what to do with it when you remove it

• Tipping, or otherwise known as doffing, your hat

Removing Your Hat

When should men remove their hats?

As a general rule men should remove their hats when indoors, as follows (not necessarily comprehensive):

In a home (particularly in another’s home)

Indoors at work (especially in an office). This rule would not apply of course to protective headgear such as construction helmets.

At a movie or other indoor theatrical performance.

In a Christian Church (or perhaps in another place of worship depending on the rules applicable) except for the priests. There are different rules for different religions and they also relate to the type of headgear to be worn. For example, Jewish men wear a yarmulke, skull cap, as a sign of humility before God. Some Jewish  men wear the yarmulke all the time except for swimming or bathing at least.

In a court of law (wearing a hat has often been treated as a contempt of court).

In a restaurant ( sometimes it is deemed acceptable to keep a hat on while at the lunch counter of a diner or café).

When outdoors a man should remove his hat in the following circumstances:

When he is being introduced to someone.

When saying goodbye to a woman or elder (or someone of higher social status).

While talking with someone, especially a woman, an older man, or clergyman (talking man to man of same status one would generally keep the hat on – unless a woman passes by or some other event happens).

During prayer (Christian ceremony, or as another religion dictates) at an outside event.

While the National Anthem is being played or the flag is passing (this is especially true in the USA but likely true in other countries. It is good to check out local customs).

While at a funeral or in the presence of a funeral procession.

While a Catholic procession is passing where a crucifix is on display. This is an old one. In 1766 (error corrected) France a teen was sentenced to death for not removing his hat while a procession was passing. (There were other charges as well but hat wearing was specifically cited). There is no death penalty now (maybe in some countries?) but why take the risk?

When speaking to another about a virtuous woman or a dearly departed loved one (what if the woman was not virtuous I ask and how do you know?).

Sometimes when passing someone on the street who he knows, particularly a lady or a superior such as your boss (hat tipping could be used as a substitute but best be careful here)

There are exceptions to the rule of hat removal and hats can remain on in the following circumstances:

In some public buildings or public places such as railroad stations and post offices.

In the main parlor area of a saloon or general store (in Westerns you can see this hat wearing thing going on).

In the entrance halls and corridors of office buildings or hotels.

In the elevators of public or office buildings, unless a woman is present when hats are removed if it is practical – if you are carrying packages, parcels or bags and both hands are occupied you are excused).

If the man is an actor or performer and the hat is part of the costume.

There are special rules for the military as to when to remove their “cover”.

What do you do when you remove your hat?

In the old days a hat check area was big business and often it was outsourced and staffed by service companies. I have previously written about hat check girls. It was considered glamorous and not a job for men.

These days one leaves a hat in the checkroom or cloakroom. Due to labor costs these areas are often unattended. There are obvious risks even in the attended checkrooms. If you leave your smart trilby on the top rack someone might crush it with a briefcase or gym bag – ouch! Better to keep it with you unless you are certain that your prized hat will get the TLC it deserves.

So what if you have to hold your hat after temporarily removing it? There are actually rules here too. On no account should you show the inside lining of your hat. This was considered a sign of disrespect. I am not sure how this all came to pass but if anyone knows please let me know.

Doffing Your Hat

In some cases a man will tip or “doff” his hat. This can be a gentle touching of the brim or it can be gently lifting the hat off the forehead. This is a lost art I am thinking.

Some say that this doffing of the hat dates back to the medieval days when a knight would tip the visor of his helmet as a sign of respect. (Truth or Urban Legend?)

Here are some of the circumstances when a man would doff his hat:

When passing a lady you know (or someone of higher status) on the street (the hat is sometimes totally removed at the discretion of the hat wearer).

Any time that a lady who is a stranger thanks you for a service or assistance

Any time that a stranger (man or woman) shows courtesy to a woman you are accompanying, such as picking up a dropped item or opening a door.

When asking a woman or elderly man for directions.

When in close quarters with a woman stranger This includes accidental jostling or passing between people conversing. It accompanies an apology.

CAUTION
In general great care should be taken in removing your hat or tipping your hat to another man except in special circumstances discussed above. It will be taken as an insult.

Whoa all this is a lot to remember and is generally contextual to the day of widespread hat wearing . Who is not to say that modern practices cannot be developed? Some practices such as hat removal during the playing of the National Anthem would still continue. Just use commonsense and be respectful and all should fall into place.

A word about baseball caps

To some referring to baseball caps as “hats” is an insult to the whole genre of hats. Marion Horvat in her article “Getting the ball rolling on hats” says the following:

The rules of distinction were thrown out with the baseball cap. It does not lend itself to protocol. No one lifts the baseball cap to a passing lady. In fact, today the young man may well see a similar cap on the head of a passing lady. It is found today on youth in homes, classrooms, even in fine restaurants. Regardless of its other consequences, this is a breach against civility. A civilized man should avoid this mania

Others would add especially do NOT wear your baseball cap backwards.

Some celebrities have made the wearing of baseball caps as a signature – Michael Moore for example is usually seen in interviews wearing some kind of baseball cap even indoors. Just look at Michael Moore’s website!

The Horvat article is well worth looking at – - it has some great illustrations.

Oh yes I almost forgot to say never, never wear an unkempt hat that is particularly shabby that would be a real faux pas.

This article has been compiled by looking at a whole host of references. If you believe I am incorrect please let me know please also let me know if you have anything to add to the discussion. Other than the Horvat article I am particularly indebted to www.bcvc.net which had quite a comprehensive listing (the site does not seem to be currently  active). I have expanded on the references however.

Hat wearing for women will be covered in a later post.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Hats and other headgear are essential for summer style from the Illustrated London News July 1914 from Burberrys.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

An Antique Market Find

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

San Francisco four days before the earthquake

www.youtube.com/watch?v=oubsaFBUcTc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oubsaFBUcTc

I recently came across this film clip on You Tube. It is a journey back in time when everyone wore hats. The full film is in the public domain and can be downloaded at the Internet archive. The clip was originally thought to be from 1905 but further research has shown the film clip to be from 1906 and was submitted for processing just 4 days before the earthquake.

You can see women in long dresses and big hats. Here is a world where electric streetcars (trams) co-exist with automobiles and horse drawn wagons. Traffic chaos reigns supreme here and it is a wonder that people were not run over frequently. Perhaps they were but I have no statistics. Enjoy going back and looking at the great hats. It’s a bit spooky watching it knowing that very shortly there would be a disaster. The buildings on Market Street shown in the film were completely destroyed and you can find footage of this by searching You Tube.  It is a bit similar to watching the movie Titanic at the beginning where people were having fun oblivious to that which was about to happen.

Please let me know what ladies you like best -- check out the lady ay minute 2:36 and again at minute 6:11.

There are many versions of the film clip on You Tube. The one I have embedded is my favorite but there is a more popular one with great music that has way over a million views and you can find it at the link below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NINOxRxze9k

I am very grateful that the footage has been preserved for us to see over one hundred years later.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Happy Mothers Day

Mothers Day is celebrated in many parts of the world tomorrow May 9. For Mothers Day in the world check out this reference.

Please don’t forget Mother.

The above are two pictures from the early part of the last century. Wear a great hat and show it off with your baby.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Darla is Back

OK I am back and recovering from tax season in Canada. A lot of fun stuff to come. Here are a couple of Victorian pictures (from tin types) found at the Toronto Antique Market today. These should get us started again.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Vintage Women’s Golf wear

The image is from a postcard I obtained from the Toronto Antique Market (it dates from around 1901 or a bit later). Sadly the hat cannot really be seen but I love the attitude of the girl in a sposrt that was and still is male dominated.

Check out Fashion on the golf course from Victoriana Magazine for some more vintage golf wear eye candy.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Fashion Plates from the Victorian Period with headwear

www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7wHAB7hiuE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7wHAB7hiuE

A Many Hatty Returns Video

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a great video from Female Impersonator Grae Phillips. Great job this would be a wonderful hat for a local play.

Although Grae describes the hat as a Victorian Hat in the You Tube title it could probably pass for an Edwardian Hat as well . I came across this fun video by chance as I was on a search for things Victorian.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHLsj0T0YIo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHLsj0T0YIo

Grae seems to “wear many hats”. She has designed some great dress up games. One of this games is based on the Titanic looks like fun, it’s a murder mystery. Check it out! She also offers beauty products that are primarily aimed at cross dressers and and the male to female transgendered community at large check it out.

Grae is a fellow Canadian from the Montreal area and performs there. Google her she has appeared on a lot of talk shows.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Easter Hats and Bonnets

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vf4RFMMYbgY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vf4RFMMYbgY

Some fun vintage Easter greeting cards for your pleasure.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=obLlk7t8r5Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obLlk7t8r5Y

This is a vintage commercial from 1965 modified by me to add a reverse motion section. A lady wearing a cheap straw hat with flowers gets angry and trashes a restaurant when served a soggy pickle.

Part of the routine is what I call an “odd job” act. In the Bond Movie a villain (Odd Job) uses a bowler hat  to kill his enemies. There is a famous demonstration in the movie where he takes the hat off a statue throwing his reinforced bowler hat. In a recent Myth Busters show this routine was tested and Busted -- the conclusion was this was a movie trick. The odd job routine has become part of the popular culture and was spoofed here in this commercial.

This commercial is part of a collection of public domain commercials on the Internet Archive.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Check out the wonderful large brimmed hats from Norman Hartnell in 1938

www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-7z2OiiqzA

This is a video from the British Film Institute collection. The models are “ordinary” society women and not professional models. Ascot and Paris oh well and hats were absolutely essential fashion wear in 1938.

The fashions are by Norman Hartnell, designer to the Queen. You can read about Norman Hartnell here and here. Hartnell had many commissions from the Royal Family in the UK dating back to 1935. He was most well known for designing Princess Elizabeth’s (future Queen) Wedding Dress. His customers were a who’s who of the 1930s and 1940s movie stars, including Marlene Dietrich an absolute icon of mine.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Charlie’s Recreation
Starring Charlie Chaplin
From the Internet Archive and in the Public Domain from 1914

If the movie does not play please click here for the link to the movie.

Charlie is asked to check his hat and the fun begins. Did you catch the lovely Edwardian hats on the ladies?

More Hat Check Girl discussion to follow in a series of posts about the hat check girl.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

A Selection of Vintage St Patrick’s Cards -- many are hatty

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy_5yYkiuMA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy_5yYkiuMA

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Who is Zahi Hawass?

Last Saturday night I attended a talk by Zahi Hawass at the University of Toronto Convocation Hall. Unless you are a history or archaeology buff you may not know Dr Hawass but you probably have seen him on television every time there is a show about ancient Egypt and the latest discoveries. Perhaps Dr Hawass has become the most famous Egyptian supplanting Omar Sharif (remember him in Dr. Zhivago and Lawrence of Arabia)?. So that is what Omar said himself in the video introduction to the talk.

Dr Hawass was  in my home town of Toronto in connection with the exhibition of ancient Egyptian artifacts at the Art Gallery of Toronto.(AGO) The Exhibition King Tut The Golden King and the Great Pharaohs ends on April 18, 2010. I made a day of it and combined the lecture with a visit to the Exhibit and a dinner at the restaurant at the Gallery. I loved the Exhibit which featured Tut and other Pharaohs but came away a touch disappointed since there were fewer Tut artifacts than in the previous exhibition in Toronto in the late 1970s. I guess it is deemed unsafe these days to transport the more iconic items. However, I did have a favorite item in the exhibition -- it was a small amulet of a vulture that was worn as a pendent -- it was quite comedic, looking like a caricature with a wry knowing smile. Oh well, I will just have to visit Egypt personally -- anybody with deep pockets want to sponsor me? Dinner was at the AGO’s Frank restaurant. I bought a package deal the exhibit plus dinner. Frank is very much upscale and dinner for one cost eventually cost around $80. The service and the food at Frank was excellent. The restaurant actually called a few days before to confirm and to apologize that certain items were not on the menu. I had the Whitefish and it was excellent.

Back to Dr Hawass and his presentation. His hour and a half presentation with photographs was a series of anecdotes about recent discoveries and recent “digs”. One exciting dig was to find (perhaps) the burial place of Cleopatra and that guy Mark Anthony. Sorry everyone Cleopatra did not have the looks of Elizabeth Taylor judging by face on coins of the day. In another anecdote Dr Hawass told us of the visit of President Obama who spent over an hour with him (see You Tube video below). Dr Hawass gave Obama a hat, the trade mark hat -- more on that in a while.

Zahi Hawass has become a controversial figure in some archaeological circles where archaeology is seen as meticulously siffting through dirt grain by grain and not doing public appearances. He has become a showman. His title Secretary General,  Supreme Council of Antiquities conveys that aura. Dr Hawass has done a lot to promote tourism to Egypt and interest in Ancient Civilizations. So what if he hams it up in his Indiana Jones hat? Hats off to him I say and a big high five.

Here are a few You Tube Clips showing Dr Hawass and his marvellous hat.

On Archaeology

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-P-zjiCZ4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-P-zjiCZ4

The visit of President Obama

www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJtYYvVjYHA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJtYYvVjYHA

The search for the tomb of Anthony and Cleopatra

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ4ugRiL8WM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ4ugRiL8WM

Dr Hawass and the Indiana Jones Hat

So what about the famous hat? It’s a mystery whether Dr Hawass wore a similar hat prior to the Indiana Jones series. He does however, pride himself on his hat being “real”and not made for a movie. Those particular Indiana Jones hats were professionally custom designed. Baron Hats in Hollywood designed at least one of the hats used in the Indiana Jones movies. It’s based on a 1930s style Fedora. You can get your very own upscale replica for $398 in Felt and $498 in Beaver at their website.

Do other archaeologists wear hats? You bet they do. I came across an interesting blog post from archaeologist Paul Barford who blogged about the Zahi Hawass Hat.

Barford had got the replica of the Hawass hat and seemed a little disappointed that it did not seem to be an exact replica.(Materials used are different for example and there appeared to be very minor style differences).Really this is not a problem and the hat costs only $45.

Barford’s post was very informative being as it was by an insider in the profession of archaeology. He noted that:

…. hats are themselves an interesting phenomenon, and in certain parts of our milieu have become a part of the archaeological dress code. A few years ago I did a count of the archaeologists working in Europe and beyond who habitually wore them and it came to (as I recall) sixteen (more than Mick Aston striped sweaters).

The Hawass hat is being sold for charity. The label inside  says(in part):

DR ZAHI HAWASS REPLICA EXCAVATION HAT/ This is an exact replica of my famous excavation hat. All profits from sales of this hat will go to fund the Suzanne Mubarak Children’s Museum in Cairo (100% wool, made in the people’s Republic of China

You can get your own Zahi Hawass replica hat at the Art Gallery of Ontario in Toronto, at least until April 18, 2010. I saw it there. You can also get the hat at this vendor website

Although Paul Barford is a self confessed non hat person he did a comparison of the Hawass and Jones hats. Yes, a close examination of the two hats reveals a number of design differences. The Indiana Jones Hat being highly stylized. Barford noted that the Indiana Jones hat has a higher crown and wider hat band, although both appear to be made of felt (being more sun friendly than leather). He noted that the Jones hat was more pinched in the front than the Hawass hat. OK Paul this pinch is known as the “Dent” (see also RCMP Hat). Read more about hat parts in my post on the subject.

Contact Dr Hawass

You can contact Dr Hawass at his website. You can also follow him on Twitter. If you want to be a friend of his on Facebook submit a note saying why. Dr Hawass is currently looking for funds for  Chair of Egyptology at the American Museum in Cairo (AUC). What about it Microsoft or Google why not match funds with individual contributors?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

If you were a Congressman would you wear something to identify you as “something special”?

The experienced Congressman says no way. Times don’t really change. This is a Cartoon from 1891, a hundred and nineteen years ago. The difference is they were all “men” and apparently the top hat was their uniform, but so many men did wear top hats. If you really wanted to be different perhaps a different type of hat (a boater, a deerstalker,a bowler… suggestions anyone?).

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0QkJNqYpFM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0QkJNqYpFM

This video comes from the British Film Institute Channel on you Tube.

You can watch over 1200 other complete films and TV programmes from the BFI National Archive free of charge at the new BFI Mediatheque -- http://www.bfi.org.uk/mediatheque

Personally I get chills watching these BFI videos and want to be transported for a visit back in time to see the lovely hat wearing in person. Only for a visit though I could not live with the lack of rights for women such as the inability to vote!! There is a bit in here about Boer War veterans.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmEMTN6b3Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmEMTN6b3Q

I have been using a number of Slide Share programs to develop videos to display hats old and new this is another one.

You can visit Flixtime.com and make your own free slide show. Provided you respect their terms and conditions the materials therein are free from royalty. The site is currently in beta and you are limited to a one minute show at this time. I presume that a premium paid version is under development.

I continue to look at other slide show offerings in connection with another project I have started.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

A Cartoon from 1891

The lady’s hat was well pinned. The men’s top hat travelled and the man ended up wearing the lady’s muff.

All in all quite a hat trick!!

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Hold on to your Hat

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Eye Candy Wedding Photos for Valentines Day

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

I recently obtained a number of magazines from 1891 and I will be posting materials from these as inspiration to us all.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

With the popularity of the recent Sherlock Holmes movie and Robert Downey Jr winning a Golden Globe it would be interesting I thought to take a look at the hats supposedly worn by the fictional characters Holmes and Watson. Sherlock Holmes is frequently portrayed wearing a Deerstalker Hat (seen in the accompanying illustration). It’s a kind of country gentlemen’s hat with two flaps at the side. Watson, a doctor by profession is often portrayed in a bowler hat, quite common in the late Victorian period. Both Holmes and Watson wore top hats of course when out to the theatre.

Did you know that there is actually a Sherlock Holmes Museum actually located at 221b Baker Street, the fictional location of the rooms occupied by Holmes. I thought it would be fun to do a quick video tour of the website and the hats available at the museum store.

I have embedded the review below:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=dteAC2EYPCY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dteAC2EYPCY

You can view the trailer for the Sherlock Holmes movie on you tube at the following link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUQbmFAE5WI”

In the trailer the Holmes character played by Downey wears a kind of nondescript hat. Does anyone have a description other than “appears unkempt”? Did Downey’s hat get any respect? I plan on seeing the movie soon.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

From the Illustrated London News March 15 1902

It is wonderful how men dressed up in their top hats to go to the theatre. The Commissionaire was also finely dressed in a quasi military outfit complete with peaked cap. The man was not embarrassed that his “little friend” was a

cigarette !

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Get your (vintage) hat on for National Hat Day

(By Norma Shephard the Hat Lady)

Norma has an extensive hat collection that she shares with the world. She maintains the mobile millinery museum and costume archive. Thank you Norma for this lovely post.

If there’s anything better for the winter blahs than a new hat, it’s a new-to-you vintage chapeau. And what better way to spend National Hat Day (Jan 15th) than browsing flea markets, thrift stores, and antique stalls for that perfect, albeit dusty perhaps, millinery specimen.

Whether you’re looking for something to wear —– the sky is the limit here, just look at all of the wild and crazy new hats people are sporting these days—or a collectible with designer caché, your search will be worth the effort. While second hand shops may not be exactly brimming with old hats, there are bound to be some interesting toppers stacked, tucked, or stashed in a corner somewhere. Be sure to use your imagination when flipping through these piles. A discarded hat that needs steaming or blocking, may not at first give away its Old Hollywood charm or 1960s chic, so try to imagine the piece in its former glory.

And whether your taste for texture runs to soft and sturdy beaver felt, or rough, nubby straw, enjoy the look and feel of materials that were used to produce the millinery treasures of long ago. Linger over the labels as well, enjoying the period graphics. Examine them closely for clues as to the history of the hats.  Is the piece in your hand a Paris Original?  Does the label bear the maker’s address or contact information? Some can be found with 5-digit phone numbers. Others have managed to retain their price tag and/or original hatbox.

If you are blessed with any psychic abilities, try to discern what type of person owned the hat. Where did she go in it? What did she wear it with? You’ll soon find yourself buried in nostalgia.

Most importantly, buy the hat. Bring it home, wear it, display it on your bureau, or in some way pay tribute to the imaginative and skilled milliners of long ago. That’s what National Hat Day is for.

Lastly, if you’re in the area on January 15th, I invite you to attend my Open House Millinery Exhibit  from 2 – 4 P.M. at Heritage Place, 4151 Kilmer Drive, Burlington, Ontario. This is a free event with ample free parking. Happy Hat Day,

Norma Shephard
www.thehatmuseum.org
nshephard@cogeco.ca

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This delightful picture was marked Christmas 1919 – exactly 90 years ago. Hats were becoming less pretentious in the post Great War period.

Unfortunately there is no name given for the young woman.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Picture is a hat shop from 1822.

Happy Thanksgiving to all Americans do not forget to support your local hat shop while shopping.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5TAbNR6xKM

This video was discovered by You Tube user Nick Wallace Smith.

http://www.youtube.com/user/nickwallacesmith

Thanks to Nick for finding this and for his creative adding of very appropriate Elgar music.

The first sequence shows her in a carriage at Balmoral in 1896 Was the highlander the famous John Brown her favorite servant. One of the commenters on the video noted that the couple alongside the carriage may be the famous Nicholas and Alexandra the last czar of Russia and his famous wife. There was no documentation one way or the other.

The second shows the Queen riding down Pall Mall in a carriage in the Jubilee celebrations in 1897.

Please visit Nick’s You Tube site for more information and take a look at the comments on the video also.

The hats are great aren’t they? I wish I could take a trip in a time machine and take a closer look in colour.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

I recently found this lovely picture on a Cabinet Card. She appears to be with child. From the clothing and hat style the picture is from the late Victorian period I believe. It could also be from the early Edwardian period also. In any case it is very unusual to find a picture of a woman with child from this period. It would not have been considered appropriate in many circles. I would be interested in your comments on this photograph and any observations relative to the dress and the hat in particular.

The large feather is quite a statement is it not?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a picture of a World War 1 Soldier from France. He is wearing the familiar Kepi Hat that some French Soldiers wore. If you look closely at the picture you will notice that this man is wearing the croix de guerre medal for distinguished service. The cord on his shoulder is the Fourragére an award given to fighting units.

The French fourragére may be awarded by the French government if a unit was cited twice in the dispatches. Award of the fourragére is not automatic and requires a specific decree of the French government. The fourragére is the same colours as the ribbon for the Croix de Guerre. If a unit is cited four times, the fourragére colours are changed to that of the French Medaille Militaire instead of the Croix de Guerre.

I am obliged to the 64 Baker St website for this information quoted above.

You can find information about World War 1 French uniforms in this article.

The croix de guerre was awarded in both France and Belgium. This is a French soldier I believe since there is a stamp from a Paris photographer on the back. Marked on the back is “a picture of father (papa)” in French.

We will remember them – all fallen soldiers and veterans of all generations from every country.

UPDATE

In Flanders Fields Poem

By Lt Colonel John McCrae (Canadian)

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place: and in the sky
The larks still bravely singing fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the dead: Short days ago,
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved: and now we lie
In Flanders fields!

Take up our quarrel with the foe
To you, from failing hands, we throw
The torch: be yours to hold it high
If ye break faith with us who die,
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

The Queen Mother’s Wedding Day in 1923

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvglWKl6b1A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvglWKl6b1A

This video is from the Official Royal Channel on You Tube a great reference for fans of the British Royals.

Notice all the hats in the crowd. My favorite was the cocked hats on the coachmen.

She did not know at the time that she would become the first lady in the land and lived through the Second World War. The Germans knew her as the most dangerous woman in Europe. A very gracious lady.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Source:

The combined Magazine THE DESIGNER and THE WOMAN’s MAGAZINE October 1920.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Source:

The combined Magazine THE DESIGNER and THE WOMAN’s MAGAZINE October 1920.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

These are two 19th century engravings featuring the wearing of the tricorn hat by gentlemen and soldiers in the eighteenth century. The name relates to the three corners in the hat design (tri = 3). Interestingly the design provides a sort of gutter for the rain to run away from the wearer. It’s a wide brim hat often worn with the point to the front. The crown is low and barely visible. Tricorns survive today as part of the dress uniform of the Chelsea Pensioners in the UK. The Tricorn evolved into the Bicorn (e) the two pointed hat.

I was recently watching Turner Classic Movies and came across the 1935 version of Mutiny on the Bounty. Charles Laughton makes a gift of one of his Tricorn Hats to the native King of Tahiti. Apparently, Captain Cook had promised a visit by King George or a fancy hat. King George presented his “regrets”- oh yeah! Captain Bligh had to pay up the promised hat out of his own pocket (or off his head) – nice plot story and a sort of poetic justice. I doubt that this was historically true. It made for some visual amusement and it was a very handsome hat I must say.

You can still get your very own Tricorn Hat if you need one for a historical play or re-enactment or just for Halloween perhaps. Here’s a site selling some upscale leather replicas.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sz3A4J3c4ro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sz3A4J3c4ro

These are wonderdul hats by Darna of www.eastangelharbor.com

Check out these Victorian and Edwardian hats and enjoy!!

I plan to return to this site at a future time and do a review.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a 1920 advertisement for the famous store Bonwit Teller & Co. It was upscale and frequented by celebrities. In this advertisement they are offering replicas (points of origin are the only points of differentiation apparently) of Paris hat designs. It is doubtful that one could copy designs now in the same manner due to current international copyright laws. Well this is now that was then. (Caution I am not a lawyer and have no ambitions in that direction please do not take this as legal advice, or commentary, or opinion, common sense definitely applies however).  I just admire the design in the picture. A voyage on an ocean liner was expensive in time and money even for the wealthy who were the Bonwit Teller clients.

Apparently Ostrich Feathers were still in vogue in the early 1920s. The folks at PETA and many others would grimace at the fur stole being worn. You can still have the look with the faux fur we have now. I personally prefer no heads tails or legs in my fur garments.

Some quick facts about Bonwit Teller & Co

The store was opened by Paul Bonwit in 1895

In the 1980s the company’s flagship location (referred to in the advertisement) was sold and became the original Trump Tower

The company’s logo was the Primrose

The chain is currently out of active business notwithstanding the attempts at revival during the 1990s

The brand name is currently owned by River West Brands who announced a revival of the Bonwit  Teller & Co Brand last year. There has been no corporate announcement that I can find since then. (Check out the other brands they own, including Coleco – I loved my Colecovision game – oh it belonged to my children). Frankly I have heard so much about the heyday of Bonwit Teller I cannot wait until the reincarnation although I suspect this may have to be after our current financial crisis. I was not able to get any confirmation as to timing.

Source in part from this page.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

An Antique Market Find.

The caption on this photograph says:

Mother with no wrinkles 20 ish

It is a photo postcard popular around 1918 to the 1920s. (The original is quite brownish and does not have the feel of a 1930s piece). Mother would have been born around the turn of the century. A delightful hat and a great image. Does anyone have any further thoughts on the age of the photo and the hat style?

Is this your Mother or Grandmother?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a cartoon showing what if there were an all women jury in late Victorian/Edwardian times. As far as I know women did not sit on Juries at that time since the qualification was, I believe, that you had to be an elector and women did not have the vote at that time. It is quite a strata of society represented and the only woman without a hat is the obvious pauper. There is even a very butch woman wearing a man’s hat. How times have changed since it has become very common as many of you know for women to wear hats such as the trilby adapted for female wear and you do not have to be butch to wear them.

The cartoon is by Charles Dana Gibson and is in the Public Domain. Charles Gibson was an illustrator and came up with the famous Gibson Girl series for a 20 year period straddling the Late Victorian/ Edwardian period arrount the turn of the 19th century to the 20th century.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjsfwWZ6thE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjsfwWZ6thE

This is a video clip from 1909 made by D. W. Griffith showing the stresses in the movie theatre of sitting behind women wearing the oversize hats of the period -- its really funny. Check out the You Tube link and read more information there.

If you like this please check out my earlier post on the same subject.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/classic-scenes-bold-hats/pool/show/with/3946335124/

Goorin Brothers are holding a photo contest Classic Scenes and Bold Hats please check it out. Entry deadline is October 18.

Think a very hatty vintage scene.

In a single photo they are looking for creativity showing:

* Historic Settings
* Antique Fashions
* Boldness of character
* One or more people wearing Goorin hats
* Creative use of historical reference
* Creating a complete world we can believe in
* Elegant and beautiful photography
* Involve your family and friends

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

I recently posted an item about Pirate Day. The Character was wearing a Bicorn Hat (sometimes known as a Bicorne Hat). The picture above is a late 19th century engraving of Frederick the Great in the 18th century riding his wonderful horse. It is the original design (I guess you might call it bicorne classic) with a very large brim turned up and pinned at the side front.

This two cornered hat was worn in the eighteenth century, mainly by the military – army and navy officers but also others like pirate captains! It was developed from the well known tricorn hat that you would have seen worn by the American colonists in the War of Independence. The tricorne is a three cornered hat which was actually worn by some into the 19th century. You will notice that the bicorne hat is worn side to side in the picture shown. There is another variant of this type of hat known as the Cocked Hat where a similar hat is worn from to back to front rather than side by side. You may have seen pictures of British naval Officers from the 18th century wearing hats that way.

As you may be aware there were some pretty large wigs being worn in the 18th century and hats were a problem. The bicorn hat was designed to be tucked under the arm when not worn. Indeed, given the wig wearing of the age there was a version of the hat just designed to be carried under the arm and not actually worn. A bicorne of this type was sometimes known as a chapeau-bras or chapeau-de-bras.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wHHzBHv9pk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wHHzBHv9pk

This is a fashion video from the VICAT channel on You Tube.

Please go over there and look at their other wonderful fashion videos both vintage and current -- you will not be disappointed.

VIDCAT is a New York based Video Producer and Director specializing in fashion and beauty videos.

You can buy fashion videos and watch more videos on www.vidcat.tv and www.vidcat.com.

Happening in Toronto C 1964 …….

1960s hat style

This is a scene from 1964 Toronto. Ladies having tea or maybe lunch in the dining room of the old EATON’s store. That store is no longer standing and has been replaced by a shopping mall -- the Toronto Eaton Centre.

Please note the wearing of fashionable hats was common place!

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a wonderful picture of an Edwardian Hat. I recently acquired this lovely picture. It is truly an inspiration.

My apologies for the unscheduled break in posting here. I’m back and there is a lot of very exciting stuff coming up including another Milliner interview – this time with Milliner Lisa Battaglia. To be posted very very soon.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Fall Toronto Clothing Show September 25 – 27, 2009

The Clothing Show is coming to Toronto at the end of this month. The Gallery above is only a sample from a few of the hat exhibitors that will be on display at the show. The Show is at the Better Living Centre at Exhibition Place here in Toronto.

The Clothing Show is Canada’s largest vintage and new independent designer show and has been in business for 30 years according to their website.

There will be over 300 booths to look at and there will be Runway Events over the course of the Show.

There will be a number of exhibitors with hats or other head wear for sale and display. These include:

A Touch of Vintage

Big it Up

Fiction Faction

Ophelie Hats

Oh Dina

I have/will get a few tickets for the show to give away here on the blog. So far I have one pair to give away an I am expecting a few more. If you will be in Toronto and you are interested in the free tickets please send me a note through the Contact Box on this blog ASAP.

Please be sure to contact me through the contact box – eie mail rather than as a blog comment so I can get your coordinates

UPDATE

The pair of tickets I had has been claimed – I may get more – feel free to ask to be on a waiting list in case I do.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Check out the pictures of First Ladies of the USA signature styles. In many of the pictures the First Ladies can be seen wearing hats. My favorite is the big feather hat worn by Eleanor Roosevelt. Mrs Roosevelt was quite a character and had a long public service career right up to 1962 when she passed away.

http://www.life.com/image/50472360/in-gallery/25671/first-ladies-signature-styles

Now let’s work on Michelle Obama

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a recent acquisition to my Vintage photo collection focusing on hats. From the clothing it is late Victorian. It’s bonnet inspired although it is not like the Regency Bonnets of around 1840 – enjoy!!

It’s sheer elegance!!

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

The business of Millinery in Victorian times

A few months ago I was browsing around the Toronto Antique Market and I came across an 1895 bound volume of the Girl’s Own Paper a now defunct magazine. It is chock full of very interesting articles advising young women and girls on various girl stuff. You know the type of thing – how to dress properly and mind your manners. There was an article by a man who essentially felt that women should not bother their heads with politics. At the time women did not have the vote but votes for women was a movement that was gaining some traction around that time. I was able to buy the bound volume for the really low price of $20 Canadian and it is proving to be a valuable source of material. As you probably know Millinery was big business at that time and there are many articles on hat styles and the hat business. There are also some lovely engravings illustrating the styles of hat then current.

I thought that you would enjoy extracts from this publication (essentially I believe that it is out of copyright at least in North America from my research – let me know if I am mistaken).(I am not a lawyer please check your local copyright laws they differ by country). Rather than put it all in a written piece I will be selecting some extracts to include in a Podcast. I believe that it is a valuable insight from the past.

The following is an article ( no author identified) on how four Milliners set up a Millinery Business in London England in 1895.

Please right click here to download the mp3

Notes from the broadcast

It is very interesting to see the observations about the need to have money savvy  not just millinery skills. This was a point brought up by Lisa Shaub in part 1 of my interview with her. Another point made in this article is that it takes seven years to become a skilled Milliner – the same point was also made by Lisa. Somethings never change 114 years on wow.

There is a comment that one of the young women volunteered that it would take 1,000 pounds sterling in 1895 to set up a proper Millinery business. This would have been equivalent to $5,000 American Dollars at the time. I was surprised how much this was. If you want to get a sense for the equivalent value today you can go to Measuringworth.com. You will find the answer there and you will be astounded. If you just use the index of retail prices from 1895 to 2008 you will find the equivalent value of over 86,000 pounds. Using an index related to average wage comparisons you get to an astounding value of nearly 481,000 pounds. Well designer Millinery was highly prized at that time but still?

By the way the article stated that the business was named after a flower but I could not find the name of the flower/business anywhere in the article – lost in time?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Top Hat Man One

Top Hat Man 2

What is the appropriate way to rest a top hat when not in use?

The two pictures of gentlemen above circa the 1860s 0r 1870s from CDVs give you the answer. Men were proud of their top hats and wanted them in the picture with them. These men knew how to put a top hat down correctly. By the way in other pictures of men in the period the subject might be be holding their hat rather than placing it close by. The rule was that when holding a hat only the outside was to be shown – no display of linings in photos or in polite company.

The definitive answer is provided by Baron Hats in Hollywood who have the following to say on how to put a hat down:

Never rest a hat on its brim for any length of time, particularly a light-weight fabric hat, and particularly if the hat is wet. Weight on the hat will cause the brim to flatten out. Make it a habit (especially with “cowboy hat” styles!), to place your hat on a wall rack, or if on a table or smooth surface, place it CROWN DOWN, with the brim sticking up. This is also very true of our silk top hats! (Emphasis Added)

By the way Baron’s top hats are great – check out the exact replica of Abraham Lincoln’s Stove Pipe top hat available from them. It was made from measurements of the original in the Smithsonian Museum.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

All Rights Reserved

This picture is indirectly related to hats since both of the men on the cart are wearing hats.

The image is a recent acquisition. I have no real clues as to date since dray carts were used until the mid 20th century – albeit in a limited fashion. The picture is attached to Cabinet Card stock. Cabinet cards were on the wane in the period immediately prior to the First World War. I believe this to be a picture taken around 1910 but I stand to be corrected if you have any other ideas.

When I looked at this picture under a high resolution scan I saw they were carrying tomatoes for/from a company called Dominion Canning (I tried researching the company but was not able to find any useful information). The sign on the window of the building on the left reads Canadian Bank of Commerce. Not an elaborate sign – maybe it was a sub branch? The Bank merged in the 1960s and eventually became CIBC (Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce on merger with the Imperial Bank).

I like the Greek fisherman’s cap on the driver’s assistant.

The two horses in the picture are great. They seem to be posing for the picture and are very well behaved. Horses used for haulage are/were specially bred. Check out more information here.

COMING SOON

Please stay tuned for part 2 of the interview with Lisa Shaub.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a fun photograph it seems to be a group having fun after a Cricket Match (Game). This is another of my recent acquisitions. It looks like it is late Victorian (in the 1890s) based on the look of the women’s dresses and size of their hats. The photograph seems to be from the Victorian period – it is a Cabinet Card that has started to yellow – another clue. It’s all totally crazy – the score card numbers are everywhere and I don’t know what the significance of who has what number – an in joke perhaps?

A lot of different hats here. Kudos to the man in the centre of the back row – very smartly dressed in a bowler.

Two of the men are still wearing their protective cricket pads and some of the women are holding cricket bats. Was this a co-ed game – probably not, probably just horsing around. The young lady in the middle of the middle row pretending to bowl (pitch) the ball looks like someone to contend with. There is a “person” next to her dressed in a bonnet – a man playing around and probably not a true cross dresser.

Altogether a fun photo – I think it’s Canadian too and we here are not really huge cricket fans (maybe an English import of a photo taken in the UK).

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is a picture I picked up at the Toronto Antique Market last weekend. It’s a sea of hats and appears to be a group company photograph. It’s curious that women if any are not in the picture – are they back in the office/factory doing the work?

There is quite a variety of hats here. The higher status men seem to be wearing bowlers (derbys) the lower status wear caps of different typs. At least one of the men appears to be wearing a Homberg.

I am not sure when this photo was taken. It is before World War 1 – it is a Cabinet Photo style albeit a very large one. It might have been taken a bit before the 1910 date I put in the heading to this post. I reduced it to postcard size and I will be offering copies for sale on my Cafe Press store when I next update the Store contents – I have quite a few new items to add.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdIPqsTvYQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdIPqsTvYQ

I just love how hats were featured during the whole 153 year period or at least some kind of head covering.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Harley Davidson 1925 style

All Rights Reserved

This is a great image I picked up at the Antique Market a few months ago. It appears to be an amateur photograph and no information was written on the picture. Maybe the dashing rider was a relative of the photographer or he/she was just crazy about Harleys?

I went to the Harley Davidson site to identify the period. The bike in the picture appears to be from 1925. Any comments? It’s certainly cool. I like the rider’s hat and goggles. The bike is really shiny and he looks like he’s ready for a race. All the men and boys are sporting hats of all kinds. Like the race track picture I posted the other day no women (unless in disguise). What no biker girls in the mid 1920s?

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=meuNWgl2ko8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meuNWgl2ko8

This is a very amusing video I found on You Tube that was shown as related to my first video. Don’t really know except he is wearing a cool hat. I looked for information on this particular Wilber Hall (Willie?) but could not find this specific individual -- anyone know the background? More performers should wear a hat.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Photograph provided by permission from the City of Toronto Archives

City of Toronto Archives, Fonds 1244, Item 2575

A lot has been written about women’s hats at the races and I recently wrote a post about my trip to the Queen’s Plate last month. Not much has been written about the wearing of hats by men at the horse races. Some men still wear bowlers and top hats to the races on special occasions. However, this photograph of men betting at the race track shows that the wearing of hats for everyday wear in the 1920s was common place. There is a veritable sea of hats in the picture. You can spot boaters and bowlers in abundance together with driving caps. There is at least one top hat wearer (during the day yet) – see if you can spot it!

Was this “Men’s Day”where are the ladies? Perhaps it was not considered lady like to line up at the bookies to place a bet – not computerized tote then. A very different time.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSZcd8Z9UBk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSZcd8Z9UBk&feature=channel_page

I was looking at some videos “related”to my first you tube video in my last post and came accross this video of women from the past who lived in Toronto many in hats.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This is my very first You tube video. You can view the video on the You Tube Site and embed it or share it on social media sites. This is the Link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBpDIhBGbfc

The music is Midnight Bells by Heuberger which was obtained from Shockwave Sound. This and other Royalty Free Music can be obtained for your projects at their site

http://www.shockwave-sound.com/a/3d9b299782

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

The reverse on the photograph reads

Edward Adams son of Mr and Mrs Elisha Adams Glencoe Ontario.

His wife Amelia Otton Adams

I recently acquired this photograph. I do not know the date but it is great we have names and locations. My best guess would be between 1915 and 1925 but I am not sure. Anybody else have any other ideas? The look and feel of the actual photo is similar to ones I have from around 1914.

Glencoe Ontario is just West of London Ontario Canada about half way between Toronto and Detroit – I did not measure it on the map.

Well I love a man in a top hat and that goes without saying. Amelia is wearing a great down turned brim hat made from a really shiny elegant fabric. They both look really smart don’t they?

OK they are not the Addams Family of comedy fame. LOL

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

This postcard was sent in the mail in Canada. It’s postmarked June 13 1916 and mailed from Eva to Gordon Patterson in Markham Ontario. Eva is an Old Pal of Gordon. Eva asks “Did you ever come to this corner?” This is all very enigmatic.

I love the flirty hat on the Betty Boop like cartoon girl – ribbons and feathers – men killers to be sure!

I have been busy planning future content on this blog. For some time I have been working on Podcasting. I recently bought a video camera and I am planning on exploring my own You Tube Videos. Blogging has taken me on a very exciting adventure and I am learning new skills. I am going through a period of information overload right now. You have not seen anything yet so please stay tuned and be sure to tell your hatty friends about this blog.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Too Happy? Then give him the Sack

I got this postcard today at the Toronto Antique Market. Sorry it’s a little messed up. I cleaned it up a bit. It has not been postally used but has been around for about 100 years so you can forgive a little griminess.. The caption reads

You really are too cheerful

I must give you the sack (translation:Fire You)

Your smile extends right round your face,

And halfway round your back

The man does not look like a servant. The woman at the back who is administering the “sack”must be the lover or mistress. What a great Edwardian Hat with too very large hat pins. Boy were they ever lethal weapons! The postcard is from Britain hence the British English.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Queen Victoria the hat style maven

Last week, on May 18, 2009, we had our “Victoria Day” birthday holiday except it was held on a regularly scheduled time of the month of May not actually on the good Queen’s actual birthday. Her actual birth date is May 24.

Queen Victoria had a long reign of nearly 64 years – the current record. She is always portrayed as the somewhat stern Grandmother of the British Empire but it was not always so. Did you know she was quite the hat fanatic in her younger years and was known as a style setter? I didn’t know until I was doing some research for this post. Just two days before she passed away an article was published in the New York Times (January 20, 1901) The heading in the article is great.

Queen Victoria’s Hats

Many Years Ago She Set the Fashion for a Shape Englishwomen Favor now

Here are some extracts.

The Queen’s hats were always bent down to the nape of the neck

The article observed that this was a style that had been copied into the late reign of Victoria and worn even by young women.

It was noted that, at the time of her early married life, hats were generally worn in the country or for travelling. If a lady wore a hat in town it was much commented upon.

The Queen changed all that by constantly wearing , when driving in the park, large shady hats, handsomely trimmed with lace and feathers. Of course she was joined in this practice by ladies in waiting at the Court.

The article is very interesting. It goes on to relate the story of a new riding hat invented by the Court Hatter around 1850. Victoria ordered several at a time!

There is a great site I found with over 200 images from Victoria’s reign. My favorites are

11,13,27,30,38,48,87,106,160,236. Please check them out

You can read about Queen Victoria in a Wikipedia article referenced here.

Please all you celebrities and Royalty out there wear hats. Michelle and Barack please note.

We need a hat revival now to cheer everyone up and think of all the jobs making the hats, designing them etc.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Queen Alexandra gives Maundy Money to the poor people in the Westminster area

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_jRHqY33yo

Scroll down on the post to view the embedded video.

This is a very charming video showing Queen Alexandra giving out Maundy money to the poor in Westminster. Queen Alexandra was the wife of King Edward VII until his death in 1910. Edward VII actually only outlived his mother Queen Victoria by nine years. Wasn’t Queen Alexandra wonderful? This lovely moment in time was likely taken shortly after King Edward’s death. It shows images of the Edwardian time, a period of extreme hat wearing. Please enjoy it!

It actually brought shivers to me. The people have such an enigmatic look. The elderly lady who reminded us of the Victorian years in the center of the shot at the 1.00 minute point particularly touched me. The older gentleman in the bowler hat who appears at the left shortly thereafter was also interesting. I wonder when these two were born? Likely they were about 70 (people looked older then) and it would put their birth dates in the 1840s -- truly truly wonderful -- eye candy for history buffs like me and to see them actually moving and their expressions. I am really in awe! Please tell me who you think was the most interesting character in this short clip.

The Beafeaters at the beginning of the clip were great. They wear similar uniforms even now and they are the Guardians of the Tower of London (Yeoman Warders). These specially honored former Servicemen -- they are former NCOs (Non Commissioned Officers)  and now act as tour guides -- they are great characters. The first woman Beafeater, Moira Cameron, was appointed in September 2007 -- see this Wikipedia entry. The guys in the Edwardian clip probably would be surprised (to put it mildly). It is a sign of the times as more women participate in active military service as I noted in yesterday’s Memorial Day post.

The people are all wearing hats except when they have them off in respect for the Queen or the Church. It was a very different time. Did you notice the Boer War veterans in their “cowboy” type hats? They spent a lot of time riding horses in that war. Many Canadians and Australians also fought in that war. Thanks to the Royal Channel on You Tube for sharing this wonderful vignette with the world. I love to see the Royal family with their great hats especially the current Queen of England.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_jRHqY33yo

What is Maundy Money?

Maundy Money is given to the deserving poor in a religious ceremony on Maundy Thursday, This is the Thursday before Easter.

The custom is based loosely on Christ’s humility in washing the feet of the poor. It has been in existence in various forms since about 600 AD. It continues to be observed.

The coins distributed are specially minted coinage. The coins minted after 1908 carry a premium. In 1908 Edward VII decreed the special coins were only to be distributed to the actual recipients. In Victorian times one could simply order a set from the Royal Mint and therefore the older Victorian coins are actually far more common. In the year 2005 the total mintage of each denomination of coin was only 1685. So the coins of particular years sell for a premium over their face legal tender amount. the worth of the coins may not be proportional to their value so be careful on E-Bay. Source: Wikipedia

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

I found this picture at our local Toronto Antique Market a few weeks ago. It appears to have been taken in the 1940s I would say either during World War II or shortly after that. It looks Canadian or American. Unfortunately the badge on the Naval Cap is not distinct enough. I love the fur and the fascinator on the woman(Wife?). (Can anyone make out the insignia?).

It is important to be grateful to the men and (increasingly) women who serve their various countries in very dangerous work. Today, in the USA, and November 11 in many other countries(including the USA) we give this special thought. Please spend a few minutes thinking about them wherever you are from.

I was interested in why US fallen service men and women are remembered in May. Memorial Day was first instituted to remember fallen soldiers in the US Civil War. It is held close to the date of reunification of the North and South. It was a brutal war to be sure. Of course, Memorial Day has taken on a broader significance as the US recognize the fallen service women and men, injured service people past and present and their serving men and women in all the Wars since then.

I am a Canadian and a British ex pat and join the Americans in their rememberance. I for one am grateful for their support in both World Wars and their continuing support now. I also recognize the sacrifice of people in armed forces everywhere.

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Here is a great cartoon from a page from a Victorian Magazine I got at the Toronto Antique Market yesterday.

The dapper little John Bull guy seems to like both fat and lean women. He is wearing a great top hat. The women are wearing some kind of bonnet looking like a scarf.

Take the Fat with the lean

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

My weekly (well almost weekly) Antique Market Find is this great picture. It’s from the late Victorian Period I believe. It is a small Cabinet Card and needed quite a bit of Photo shop work. I love the parasol, the very Hispanic headdress on the woman and the great boater on the man.

All Rights Reserved

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.

Tomorrow is the date for Mother’s Day in Canada and the USA and in a whole lot of countries. Dates for celebration of Mother’s Day vary widely around the world as you can read at this link. It is interesting that in England where I was born Mother’s Day is celebrated in March. Well even if tomorrow is not your day just send Mom a note of appreciation anyway.

My Mother Winifred worked as a hat machinist in my Home Town of Luton where there was extensive hat making. The town’s Football (Soccer) Club is known as the “Hatters”. Luton has grown since I left several years ago and now has a University. Hat manufacturing has declined over the years as the practice of wearing hats has also declined. We are here to change that aren’t we? We all need to do something to bring hat wearing back into style. I used to visit my Mother in the little factories where she worked. There were rooms of machinists – 100% women as I remember- and there was a room for blocking, a steamy sweaty job – this was 100% men. Hat blocking was certainly not considered to be “women’s work”. It was a different time! I got interested in hats from a very young age. It has been too long since hat wearing has died out as a fashion statement for general wear. It’s a great pity for me.

I thought that you would be interested in the picture I am sharing with you today. I bought it on E-Bay. The top left hand corner had been today torn away. I had to do quite a bit or work on it on Photo Shop. On the back is written “Radie and Harold”. Judging by the large size of the hat we are dealing with around 1910, perhaps a few years earlier. I have seen some other material with hats like that from around 1910 (Any other thoughts from my fellow history buffs). I love the Wicker pram (Baby Carriage) and the newborn baby “Harold”, the Mother “Radie” seems so proud. Radie could be your Mother, Grandmother,Great Grandmother or even Great Great Grandmother. Please share this link widely – I think that it will bring a smile to your Mother’s face and of course to all those Great Grandmoms out there!

Remember please share this post with your Mothers and Grandmothers.

Happy Mother’s Day

©2012 Many Hatty Returns. All Rights Reserved.